Delhi was always going to be a shock to the system, but we could never really prepare ourselves for what manner of jolt it would bring. In the end, the warmth of the people we met within the first couple of days, and the levels of service and attention we have experienced at the hotel we are staying at (it’s The Park) managed to soften the other less palatable aspects of life in modern India: the desperate poverty, the post-apocalyptic rubble that lies everywhere, the insane traffic, and the grubby air.

A rickshaw ride into the heart of Old Delhi and a visit to Asia’s largest produce market the next day were both dives into the Delhi deep end, thrilling and stomach churning in equal measure.

I’ve been really lucky to already have made contact with some great Delhi food guides – journalist Sourish Bhattacharyya, executive editor and enthusiastic food writer of the India Mail, and Backshish Dean, director of food production at the Park and one of the most thoughtful and exciting chefs in the city, if not India – both of whom have helped lead me to some of the tastiest food I have ever eaten (not least at Chef Dean’s restaurant, Fire, in The Park).

 A tidal wave of coconuts at the entrance to Asia's largest wholesale food market, the rarely visited (by foreigners) Azadpur market.

 These ladies are individually unwrapping physalis to sell in bunches – labour is cheap, you might say.

 Mmm, lunch in the market. Weighed out by the 100g. I came back for seconds!