I went for lunch at Dinner the other day. Of course, I had to have the courageously unappetisingly-named 'Meat Fruit', a chicken liver/foie gras parfait enrobed in a mandarin jelly, which has become the restaurant's signature dish.

Here it is:

And the wobbliness of the subsequent photo ought to be enough to tell you just how good it not just looks, but also tastes.

Once I had tried my first mouthful, all thoughts of carefully composed photographs went out the window. Quick, take the damn picture so you can get on with eating more!

It was one of those occasions on which clever formal dickery was more than matched by sheer flavour. Man, that liver mousse tasted incredibly great. Exquisitely light, whipped to within an inch of its life, with punchy seasoning, and an acidic tangerine coating to cut through that artery-clagging fattiness.

The rest of the meal, and indeed the restaurant and service, were excellent too, but that meat fruit will stay with me for a long time to come.

There's a recipe here.  Time to dust off the Thermomix…